Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a international community of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city is little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always characterized its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation do not want to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to explore these tales and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.